Past Masters

Milan cathedral, the symbol of the city, is a High Gothic fantasy of towering stained glass windows and saint-encrusted marble walls, topped by more than a hundred spires. It’s the geographical and social heart of Milan, and a trip to the roof is an absolute must. Climb the 167 steps, or take the lift if you’d rather save your breath to gasp at the view from the top. On a clear day you can see beyond the city, to the towering dark blue Alps. Down below, the centre of Milan is bustling with business people, shoppers and tourists. Turn off the colonnaded shopping arcades however, and you’ll soon find quiet, cobbled side streets lined with gemlike boutiques and mouth watering delicatessens selling take-away ravioli to local office workers. The city’s museums house an embarrassment of riches: the renaissance fort of the Castello Sforzesco contains ten museums, including the Museum of Musical Instruments, the Museum of Ancient Art, and the Achille Bertarelli Prints Collection – which traces the history of Milan through ancient maps, postcards and newspapers. Not to be outdone, the world-renowned Pinacoteca di Brera was founded to house Napoleon’s collection of art ‘borrowed’ from religious institutions – and what a collection – works by Raphael, Caravaggio, Titian and Tintoretto adorn the walls. And then there’s Leonardo da Vinci’s iconic Last Supper. The mural, painted on the wall of the dining hall in the convent of the Santa Maria delle Grazie, is one of the world’s masterpieces – but a fragile one – it started flaking just a few years after it was completed – and its most recent restoration lasted 20 years. Visitor numbers are limited, so book your ticket before you leave home – your efforts will be more than rewarded by the sight of this remarkable work.

Modern day Treasure

But this is not a city to rest on its laurels – a stroll through the shopping streets of the Quadrilatero d’Oro (or ‘Golden Triangle’) should convince you of the wealth and creativity of today’s Milan. Start from the glass-domed temple to shopping, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, where Prada first set-up shop, and then explore the streets around the Via Montenapoleone, where temptation lurks around every corner. These streets are the home, and the birthplace, of some of the world’s most celebrated designers – Armani, MaxMara and Gucci are among the many whose sumptuous displays glitter and shimmer, luring shoppers and window shoppers alike. The gorgeous clothes, and their price tags, may well be breath taking, but for the Milanese, style means more than just flashing your cash – window shopping and people watching are favourite pastimes - and the designers cater to them too. Why not watch the world go by while sipping a cappuccino at the Gucci café, or later in the day, linger over a cocktail in the Dolce and Gabbana Martini Bar?

La Dolce Vita

And what about after the shops have shut? Don’t worry, Milan is a city that parties as hard as it works, or shops. Milan is the capital of Lombardy, the Italian region stretching northwards to the Alps, and rich Milanese dishes make the most of the produce that their fertile slopes bear. Many menus start with ‘risotto alla Milanese‘ made with saffron and bone marrow, or for a sweet treat try a slice of Panettone – the local fruity Christmas cake, traditionally accompanied by a glass of sweet dessert wine. Enjoy your meal outside on balmy late summer evenings, or prolong the night by saving supper ‘til later and enjoying an aperitif – most bars in Milan lay out a delicious spread in the evenings – the perfect accompaniment to a glass or two of Prosecco. If you haven’t managed to see da Vinci’s Last Supper, head down to Navigli, south of the city centre, where another of his masterpieces is on display, for free. The canals of Navigli, now lined with trendy bars and cafes, were da Vinci’s invention – created so the marble for Milan cathedral could be shipped into the city. Or if you’re looking for a special evening out, what could beat tickets to La Scala, the legendary opera house that’s hosted debuts by Puccini, Verdi and Rossini. Now if a trip to the opera doesn’t justify splashing out on a new outfit, then what does?