At the crossroads of the world, Uzbekistan has, over the centuries, been part of the Persian, Macedonian, Arab, Mongol and Russian Empires, and was itself the heart of one of the most fearsome empires the world had ever seen – under the legendary rule of Amur Timur in the 14th century. The sweep of history across the Central Asian steppe has left Uzbekistan scattered with ancient gems – the names of its most famous cities – Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva conjure heady images – of the exotic Silk Route, adventure and riches, and turquoise cupolas as vivid as the cloudless sky. All those things can still be found in today’s Uzbekistan – whether you’re wandering the mosques and madrasahs of the ancient cities, exploring the wide open lands of the wild steppe, or immersed in the scent of the pungent spice stalls at one of Uzbekistan’s many markets.

Tashkent is a city enthusiastically embracing the future. In 1966, much of it was destroyed by an earthquake, and the Soviet buildings that went up then, are now being replaced by impressive new developments. Among them are new Senate and Presidential buildings, and the complete renovation of the city’s Independence Square, now decorated by artificial waterfalls and silver storks. To get your bearings, take the lift up Tashkent’s TV tower – from where you can spy into courtyard gardens reflected in glassy new skyscrapers, and watch the bustle of people, cars and buses, speeding through the city. Back on the ground, or rather underground, the metro isn’t just a great way to get around Tashkent –it’s a sight in itself. Built during the Soviet era, this is the only metro in Central Asia, and it rivals the far more famous Moscow Metro for splendour. Step out of the metro into the heart of the ancient city, Chorsu Bazaar, which has been a trading centre for a thousand years. Commerce is still thriving here – under the canvascovered walkways you can find everything from soap powder to curlytoed slippers, and of course food. You can smell the spice market of Chorsu’s central dome, almost before you see it – stalls heaped with sacks of every spice you can imagine (and some you can’t) are a feast for all your senses. It’s a great place to try some typical Uzbek treats – nibble on a white ball of ‘Kurt’ – a snack made from sour milk, or a hot, round, sesame-covered loaf of Uzbek bread, finishing off with a cupful of sweet, foamy ‘Nisholda’ which is basically raw meringue mix – and a guaranteed cure for indigestion, according to every Uzbek I asked. Overlooking the market are two of Tashkent’s oldest buildings – the 15th century Jammi Mosque, and the 16th century Kukeldash Madrasah – which taught centuries of children before the Soviet era, and whose rose-filled courtyard again echoes with lessons – it reopened in the 1990s as an Islamic primary school. Not far off, the modern and ancient combine at the brand new Hasrati Imam Mosque complex. Built in less than 3 months, to celebrate Tashkent being named the International Capital of Islamic Culture 2007, the Hasrati Imam Mosque is vast – with space for thousands to pray. The older buildings in the complex have been renovated – just behind the mosque you’ll find the Usman Koran – at more than 1200 years old, it’s believed to be the oldest Koran in the world. Originally brought here by Amur Timur, some of the pages are stained – the still visible marks, it’s said, of the blood of Caliph Uthman, who was murdered while reading it.

The Sky-Blue Cupolas of Samarkand

The fabled city of Samarkand embodies the exoticism of the Silk Route and the East. It was the throne of the legendary warrior Amur Timur (who, also known as Tamerlane or Timur the Lame, has inspired songs, poetry and tales down the centuries). At its fullest extent his empire reached from modern day Turkey, through the Middle East and Central Asia to Northern India – and wherever he went he brought back treasures, craftsmen, poets and scholars to Samarkand – and set them to work to build an awe-inspiring capital.

His works, and that of his Timurid Dynasty, are still breathtaking today. At its heart the exquisite symmetry of Registan Square – surrounded on three sides by medieval madrasahs which are masterpieces of Islamic architecture. Their elegant minarets, walls and domes are decorated not only with geometrical designs, but also stylised tigers and gazelles. Not to be outdone – Amur Timur’s resting place, the Gur Emir Mausoleum glows inside with gold, and the Bibi Khanum Mosque –once Central Asia’s biggest, was built to celebrate his victories in India – it still impresses visitors with the power of those who built it. Even older than these, the Shakhi Zinda Necropolis has been a site of pilgrimage since the 11th century. This complex of more than 20 mausoleums is centred on ’The Tomb of the Living King’ – Khusam ibn Abbas, who was a cousin of the Prophet Mohammed, and the man who brought Islam here in the 8th century. As you walk through, each gold and turquoise-decorated building seems more beautiful than the last – and the intensity of their colour is enriched by the heat of the Central Asian sun. The famed sky-blue cupolas of Samarkand will stay with you long after you’ve left the city.

In the Steppes of Central Asia

Further afield, more ancient splendours await the traveller at Bukhara – once one of the holiest cities in Central Asia, and at the tremendous walled-city and former Khanate of Khiva. But as you make your way between them, the landscape itself, the Central Asian Steppe, is something to see. As the vast cotton plantations, vineyards and melon fields, give way to the wide open tawny grasslands of the steppe, you might glimpse the odd herdsman with his livestock in the distance, or the shadow of a hovering Steppe Eagle overhead. With your head full of tales and treasures of history – it’s not hard to imagine a caravan of Silk Route traders, or a horde of galloping warriors coming over the horizon – Uzbekistan seems made to inspire such dreams.