Wealth of history

Modern Armenia is heir to a rich heritage. Historically the Armenian lands have stretched from the Black Sea to the Caspian, south into what is now Iran and west into modern-day Turkey. The region was one of the first places on earth to develop agriculture, and that early start, combined with its key location on the trade routes between east and west, meant Armenia has over the millennia, been fought over and ruled by Arabs, Byzantines, Persians and Russians – with each empire adding to the country’s unique cultural mix. They’ve left a lot of riches too, many of which you can see in the marvellous State History Museum of Armenia. Exquisite jewellery and embroidery, sumptuous rugs (for which Armenia is rightly famous) and fearsome weaponry are on display. Though many exhibits are labelled only in Armenian, it hardly matters – these dazzling collections speak for themselves. The State History Museum sits on Republic Square, at the heart of the capital, Yerevan - but head north along Meshrop Mashtots Street, and you will reach what some call ‘Armenia’s real treasure’ – the Matenadaran. The Matenadaran houses 1600 years of scholarship – starting with the invention of the unique Armenian alphabet in 405AD, by Meshrop Mashtots – and it is the largest collection of Armenian manuscripts in the world. Inside there are religious, scientific and literary works, books describing Armenia’s relations with the Roman, Persian and Byzantine empires, and beautiful illuminated manuscripts of all kinds – from the tiniest miniature to the most enormous tome. The Matenadaran and State History Museum are the flagships of Armenian history, but they are by no means the end of the tale. Yerevan is a city packed with museums, telling stories of all kinds. You could see the origins of Yerevan, on a trip to the remains of the eighth century fortress of Erebuni; learn about the Armenian Genocide of 1915 – which still causes controversy today; or immerse yourself in the surreal and whimsical world of the acclaimed film director Sergei Parajanov – whose diverse and fantastical works of art have been preserved in a traditional Armenian house, in one of Yerevan’s most charming and idiosyncratic museums.

Rock of ages

Dominating the Yerevan skyline is the magnificent Mount Ararat. Though the mountain is today in Turkey, it remains the symbol of Armenia – with its snowcapped peak, said to be the resting place of Noah’s Ark, towering over the city. The sight of it reminds you that beyond Yerevan, Armenia is a land of mountains, and those who venture out, even for half a day, will find picturesque landscapes and astonishing ancient cliff-top churches that leave you dizzy with wonder. Less than an hour from Yerevan, the temple of Garni sits on a spur of land overlooking the twisting Garni Gorge. The Greco-Roman temple was built in the 1st century AD by the Armenian King Tiridates, with money he received after visiting Emperor Nero in Rome. It was destroyed by an earthquake in the seventeenth century, but sensitively reconstructed thirty or so years ago, and the temple’s beautifully carved pomegranates, vines and oak leaves reflect its peaceful setting. On the way to Garni, stop off at the Charents Arch, named after Armenia’s favourite poet. Yeghishe Charents, whose poem ‘My Armenia’ every Armenian knows by heart, said this spot had the best view of Mount Ararat, and the sweeping valley and distant mountains certainly make for impressive photos. Just ten minutes beyond Garni, the UNESCO World Heritage listed Geghard Monastery is cut into the cliff-face. This astounding complex of churches is not just part of Armenian history – this country was the first Christian nation on earth, and the architecture of early Christian churches built here, inspired others throughout the world and down the ages. Entering the churches actually takes you inside the mountain, and it’s possible only to marvel at the workmanship that created chambers with such perfect acoustics, decorated with intricate carvings.

Fruits of heaven

But Armenia is not just about historical treasures, the country today is bustling with change, proud to maintain its traditions, but certainly part of the modern world. One prime example is Ararat Brandy – famed throughout the former Soviet Union for being a rich and flavourful taste of luxury. You can tour the Ararat Brandy factory, learn about its 120-year history, and how to truly appreciate a glass of brandy – some bottles of which contain liquor up to 70 years old! Opposite the Ararat factory, try another favourite tipple at the Yerevan Wine factory, which also offers tastings and tours (though doing both on one day may not be very wise!). Armenia claims to be the original winemaking site – the story goes that Noah, coming down from his ark, planted grapes and made wine – and judging by the taste of today’s Armenian wines, they certainly seem to know what they’re doing. The land here is abundant, and Armenian apricots, figs and walnuts are all rightly famed. Even in winter, you can gorge yourself on homemade jams, rich stews, and fruity sweets, topped-off with thick Armenian coffee or fragrant thyme tea. The hospitality traditional here means you’ll be hard-pressed to avoid a feast every night of your stay – maybe it’s time that modern maps also labelled Armenia as paradise on earth.